Monday, 31 December 2007

Fairliebt in Nairobi

Fairliebt is a fine, young ethical T-shirt label from Hamburg in Germany. They use fair trade shirts from organic cotton and sustainable screen print techniques. The shirts are recognizable by their clear, playful designs.

Their T-shirts are made by Lamu Lamu in a factory in Nairobi, and certified fair trade. During my visit in Kanya I coincidently visited the factory. My photo's of this visit are lost, but here a short impression: it was rather stuffed in the factory. They started with only about twenty workers, now every corner of the working place is used. In one corner sewers were busy for a local Kenyan clothing brand, full of colors and patterns. On the other side I found the shirts of Lamu Lamu. As they also produce non organic basic T-shirts for the local market, I could compare the quality. Indeed, the organic cotton felt much, much nicer and softer!

As I wrote already in another article, it is hard to see the fair trade aspects in a factory if you are not trained for it. The area is really industrial, dirty and rough. For someone with a lot of beautiful ideas about sustainable production this can be rather disappointing, but the reality is off course that we also have to create better working conditions inside the dirty industrial areas. And respect for those sweating to realize this on every day base!

The cotton from the Fairliebt shirts comes from Phenix in Uganda, please read the articles below if you want to know more about this organic, fair trade cotton from Uganda.
Fairliebt are selling their shirts online to keep prices low. A succesful concept for them, and a good example for others. Thanks to Fairliebt for your positive spirit!

*** I wrote this article shortly before the unfortunate happenings in Kenya of the past weeks. Let's hope that peace will return to this lovely country. Frans

See one of the Fairliebt clips on MySpace:





happy 2008!

Friday, 21 December 2007

Eco-fashion is getting hot in Stockholm

Stockholm is becoming a meltingpot of hot, organic fashion and anticorporate blackspot. Thursday we went for a few hours eco-fashion hunting in Stockholm, in search for future Pamoyo selling shops and for general interest off course. First we visited Red & Fairy, a shop who opened their doors just five weeks ago. The clothes they sell are completely organic and fair trade. Red&Fairy prefer labels that produce fairtrade in the South. They sell clothes from two Swedish labels, Righteous Fashion and Dem Collective, and furthermore Kuyichi. A small but very nice shop, and we hope they will make it and grow!

Next stop was the Ekovaruhuset in old town Gamlastan, very well located between arts and crafts shops and chique fashion boutiques. The Ekovaruhuset, with a second store in New York, has a large offer of fashionable clothes, shoes, and accessories. On the one hand they sell fashion, on the other hand a selection of organic cleaning detergents, ethical living magazines and chique organic chocolates. Considering all the Christmas rush, the personal was very calm and spreading a peaceful atmosphere with a lot of attention and love in creating one-of-a-kind packages. One of the women in the shop said that the skepticism against ecological clothes had been hard, but that they now notice a change of attitude. They sell a selection of very wide range of cool, well known ethical fashion brands and local Swedish ethical designers like American Apparel, Anja Hynynen, Bergman Sweden, Birgitta Ericsson, Blackspot, Camilla Norrback, DEM Collective, Demin, Gossypium, Günay Kulbay, Howies, Johanna Hofring, Lovisa Burfitt och Stina Johnson, Kuyichi, Misericordia, Modiga barn, Nana Baah, Peau-Ethique, Pelle Backman, Loomstate, Steward&Brown, Solius, ThreeAsFour, Tor Söderin, Zion Clothing, Åsa och Taneale and Veja.

On our way to hipster area Söder we accidently passed Sarabia, the agency office of Kuyichi, Misericordia, Edun, and Steward & Brown. Unfortunately closed, but showing a nice location and good windows to look in through. Just afterwards we spotted Adbusters’ Blockspot sneakers in an ordinary, large Swedish fashion store, which made us believe that ethical fashion is really getting hot in Stockholm. As young people in Sweden generally are well dressed in style and seem to spend a little budget on fashion, there might be a good market for ethical fashion as well, with still quite a space to grow. Considering that the new cool Swedish ethical brands are focusing on the young generation in particular, with designer fashion like Camilla Norrback, and a range of smaller, upcoming labels, ethical fashion might in Sweden work best being style conscious. But as ecological and social awareness in Sweden is relatively progressive, it sounds logical that the ethical side will also market itself here upnorth, which is recently proved by the succesfull exhibition “Fair Fashion?” in Göteborg last autumn.

After all, the most ethical fashion is to be found in Söder, where lampposts and traffic signs are dressed in handmade knitwear. An original form of street art taking care of the freezing street furniture and the stubbornness of bypassers...

Tuesday, 18 December 2007

Organic cotton farming in Uganda

In Northern Uganda, in the region around Lira, there is as much as 27 thousand farmers (!!!) growing organic cotton. The farmers are united in a cooperative with chosen representatives. The organic cotton project here is started by and running through the Dutch company BoWeevil. The cotton from the Phenix factory in Kampala which I visited the day before, origins from this project as well. As might do the Edun or M&S clothes you are wearing on this very moment.

I went to see the project and visited some farmers. It was quite a trip from Kampala, it takes about six hours on crazy roads. As I understood, this area has been under control by the cruel guerilla Lord’s Resistance Army until very recently. Now there are peace negotiations, so the area is calmer and the farmers, who lived in refugee camps, are living on their lands again. So until one, two years ago they had to go to their lands with fear and go back to the camps before the evening fell. One could understand that’s not an easy way to work. Okay, no Army anymore, but on the way back our driver refused to stop at the beautiful Nile waterfalls because there was a danger for guerilla bandits.

The farming life looked all quite romantic to me, traditional huts, some chickens running around, people hanging around or working a bit. The farmers have small fields with different crops. They do not make use of irrigation, so depend on the rain seasons that occur a few times per year. Next to cotton they grow sesame, red peppers and vegetables for local consumption. The income from cotton and sesame, which is exported, gives income which the farmers can use to send their children to school or buy medicines from. From the extra income they gain with growing organic, the farmers can afford building small houses instead of huts. This is a development from the last years, and if it continues, traditional huts might disappear pretty fast from the landscape.

This is the ambivalence of development. On the one hand it is a positive achievement for the farmer, having a good roof, a house with a door that you can close of, on the other hand it can be a loss of cultural value. An even stronger ambivalence I felt when visiting the Maasai women project in Kenja. In this project, run by catholic nuns, they make traditional jewelry to be able to send their children to school. As they said, they hope that their children will then be able to give the Maasai a stronger presence in municipalities, politics, and that this will decrease their oppression. But while these children go to school, they will live less tightened to their traditional culture, and if they become successful, they will most likely be westernized.

There is not much enemies of cotton in Uganda, so the need for pesticides is not all that high. Often farmers do not have the money to invest in chemicals either. So the step to become organic is not all to large. What makes a difference, is that the organic farmers are trained in methods to prevent their crops in a natural way. A rather genius but logical invention is to plant red peppers around the cotton. Quite some animals don’t really like peppers so they will stay away. And by using this method, they also produce peppers. Another part of growing organic is using crop rotation. The different crops use the ground different, which keeps the soil fertile, so one does not need artificial fertilizers to pimp up the ground. The crop rotation also results in a more efficient use of the landfill and a higher production. In this way it is also more economic. And off course also the non-organic farmers are very interested to see what their neighbors are doing…

In the end, the social effect of this organic cotton project might be much bigger than the ecological impact. The farmers get a guaranteed price and buy for their cotton, the get training and a organic-bonus of twenty percent. This can mean the difference for sending their children to school or having a proper housing. As they are organized in a cooperative, they are relatively self-organized. In that sense, it is a logical step that the project is becoming fair trade certified now. But also the ecological impact is important, as it supports and conserves a relatively traditional way of farming, and is a good alternative to technolization, GM production and ‘improvements’ with pesticides, often introduced or forced by large corporations, who also try to get more grip in Africa. In this fall, the Ugandese case is an interesting example because the success of the organic production, the support from the Ugandese government and the result might be that the whole North of Uganda will be organic within a few years.

Saturday, 15 December 2007

Uganda: the reality of production


After the workshop in Kenya I took a bus from Nairobi to Kampala, the capital of Uganda. The trip with Akamba bus took about fifteen hours. It was relatively comfortable, compared to Matatu traveling, where you sit in a small van pressed against each other, but the roads where wobbly, sandy and dusty and one feels quite exhausted after such a trip. On the way I spotted a lot of colorful birds, zebras, antelopes, and apes. After being in wealthy circumstances of hotels, restaurants, and good company, this was quite a difference and I felt arriving in Africa for real!

Kampala roads are much worse than Nairobi roads! And traffic jams are relative if you get used being stuck five hours a day... In Kampala we visited a few projects, in example a designer who makes jewelery and bags from recycled materials (see picture left, she is holding a bag made from recycled plastic), which are produced under a women support program. We also visited the Phenix factory, where they produce fabrics and garments form organic cotton. It was interesting to see, since they work hard to make the factory vertically integrated, one could see the whole process from bringing cotton in to a ready sewn and printed garment in one factory.

Actually it is really worth visiting so many places of production because it gives much more of an insight in the reality of garment production. One of the things I learned on my journey is how complex the matters of fair trade is and also how relative it can look. Complex because it is a whole production chain involved. The cotton can be organic and fair trade, but that doesn't make the final product organic or fair trade. Relative because fair trade, even when certified, is not always visible directly, fair trade does not automatically mean smiling workers (as the marketing of fair trade will make you believe), so it is more in the invisible part (control on labor rights, transparency of the production chain, etc.) that makes the difference.

Friday, 7 December 2007

Ethical Fashion in Kenya



Last weeks Frans visited Kenya and Uganda and visited several projects there. The trip started with the workshop Africa Inspires in Nairobi, organized by the Ethical Fashion Forum, an international platform for ethical fashion brands and initiatives, and the ITC. The workshop provided a program of visits to social projects, fair trade initiatives, recycling, etc. If you are working with ethical fashion or are a fashion designer interested to do so, the projects of the Ethical Fashion Forum might be of interest for you as well!

We visited projects in and around Nairobi and the Rift Valley. They included breadwork and weaving, shoe and bag production, etc. TO BE CONTINUED SOON...

Tuesday, 20 November 2007

Ethical shopping in Berlin

Where to shop clothes in Berlin when you want to get it ethical? Lately we get a lot of questions where to get organic textiles or where the ethical fashion shops are in Berlin. Now when we went shopping for ourselves, discovered it still is a rather difficult question. There is not a specialized shop, but if you do your best, you can find really cool stuff fair trade or organic.

Off course there is American Apparel. However cool they might be, they are not really organic or fair trade, but always the number one in the media when there is written about ethical fashion. Fair trade jeans brand Kuyichi is to find in several shops, although the collections are often rather small, we found only one male jeans, which is rather disappointing. There is the Berliner label Slowmo, great organic streatwear with limited collections. Okay, actually there is really a lot, you just have to make the efford to find it. Either chique labels like Noir, Misericordia, activist shoes from Vegetarianshoes or Blackspot sneakers at the Veganladen or eco-hemp clohting from the Hanfhaus in the Oranienstrasse.

We first went to Prenzlauer Berg and found a few rather priced down clothes from Patagonia, who integrate organic and recycled materials in their products. We also found a pear of sneakers from the French shoelabel Veja, pretty stylish sneakers from organic materials. We went to Mitte and searched for Howies, but we did not succeed. In stead we found a nice organic jeans from Lee. We believe it is best to buy from brands that are truly ethical and not only selling a few organic items to greenwash their image, nevertheless it is also great that one can find organic clothing from quite a lot of mainstream brands. And not to forget to notice, the great organic recycling label Pamoyo is coming to be sold in Berlin really soon!

Searching for a lunch place we passed the LPG at Kollwitzstrasse, claiming to be the largest biosupermarket of Europe. The concept of the LPG is that every costumer can become a member and shop with discount. Two flours of organic
products, with large meat and cheese counters, big nonfood area, childrens corner, and even a moving staircase. For dedicated bioshoppers this is quite a shock!
Geheimtip: on the first floor there is a soft, read couch where you can relax and drink a free cup of coffee. The canteen next to the entrance sells fresh soups and meals for 3-6 euros. We had a pasta with spinach-Gorgonzola sauce, a Broccoli grattin with salad and lemon whater for 10 euros, not too bad for Prenzlau. A popular place, and it does not seam to disturb any bio-shopper that all the Furniture is from Ikea. Something we found disappointing was to find cotton clothing in this biosupermarket without being controlled organic. Some work to do!

In genral one can say: organic is coming! In food we just stumble over the new biosupermarkets, take-away-shops, etc. For clothes it will come, and 2008 will be the year that ethical fashion getting more available in Berlin.

Visiting a natural textiles store (naturtextilien) we asked if they sold organic textiles. We were treated as if we asked for Satan. That organic is a religion, that it is all nonsense, that all their materials were natural, etc. Just when we left in full shock, we saw the cross hanging on the wall. A religious conflict just over organic cotton? It made us think, and when we later where in the bookshop Pro QM we had the idea to make a book about the connection between cultural creatives, LOHAS, and worldviews.

Monday, 19 November 2007

Storms and new ideas




Last week we traveled to The Netherlands for a bit of fresh sea air and inspiration. We happened to see the sea at it's highest level since 1953, the year of the big flood in The Netherlands. Such strong nature pwoers always give a strong energy. Meanwhile the Dutch government is seriously investigating the possibilities to build five islands in front of the coast. And in the media the idea of an island in the form of a Tulip got a great response. The Dutch response to Al Gore's warnings and climate change: build some new land...

We met some people and projects on our way, such as Annouk, the woman behind the Yoi Foundation and the Hiphonest label, an initiative that have made ethical fashion more hip in The Netherlands. It was very inspiring to speak with someone who had the same kind of ideas as we had a few years ago, and they realized quite a lot of them. A guerrilla store, pr actions, workshops, etc. On our way back we visited some people in Frankfurt am Main, who we met on the Fair Fashion Affair. Such as Noel, working at the marketing department of the German ecolabel Hess Natur, and Christoph, who is a business adviser for sustainability and LOHAS and the man behind Karmakonsum. As we are still developing our ideas for new actions and events, it is really nice to get in contact with people working in the same direction.

A lot of upcoming things for us: Frans going to Kenia and Uganda next week, a trip to Sweden and The Netherlands (again), a lot of new projects under construction, our ethical fashion label Pamoyo getting started for real, the realization of the Grass Routes Foundation, finding a funky office and atelier space in Berlin, etc. etc.

We keep you informed...



Tuesday, 13 November 2007

Videos for sustainable development

What if we make a machine that creates snow. Without snow everything will be dark. The snow will make the earth a little bit colder. Maybe this will be the first useful machine...

This film gives a playful perspective on the topic of global warming. It is part of a project where art students in Sweden made short videos on the topic of sustainable development. See also Soderberg.tv for more info, and check all 26 movies on youtube.

Tuesday, 6 November 2007

Fair Fashion Affair: impressions by Karmakonsum

KarmaKonsum made a nice short video impression of the Fair Fashion Affair and also published an enthusiastic report and some pictures through his blog. Anyway an interesting blog for German readers
who are interested in topics such as ethical consume, sustainable living and the rise of the LOHAS.

Fair Fashion Affair Performances on TV

Finally some good visuals from the Fair Fashion Affair Performances! Although the TV Berlin did not name the credits, half of the images of this sending are from our Fair Fashion Affair Performances; showing clothing of o.a. Lisa D., Slowmo, Caro E., Epona, Ketchup&Majo and Pamoyo. Ethical fashion in underground style, designed by Grass Routes.





Öko-Mode aus Friedrichshain - TV Berlin Video
Öko-Mode aus Friedrichshain - TV Berlin Video

Wednesday, 24 October 2007

Fair Fashion Affair Berlin 2007

It was like giving birth. For us, organizing this Fair Fashion Affair was the first public project organized by the Grass Routes Agency. Also our unofficial birth as ethical fashion representatives. It was fun, it had a good spirit and creative energy, but a month is definitely too short to organize such an event. If we would do it again, we would prepare at least half a year in advance and also organize more financial means.

Organizing a non-budget event also has it´s charms, and
we have to say the performances where even better because we worked with non-professional models having our first repetition a day before the performances. The tension made it stronger. Off course a lot went wrong, but in the end we had the feeling that the event had a positive resonance.
As we have more experience with starting to prepare an exhibition one day in advance, this might be another record, because we had to fix films, textual expo, clothing, models, discussion forum, equipment, most of the things in the last week. We will take it a bit easy now, work on the more official launch of our ethical fashion label Pamoyo and prepare for future projects. Read more about the Fair Fashion Affair and download our report on www.fairfashion.info.

Wednesday, 22 August 2007

Berlin street art revisited






















Huge monsters, political drawings, metal installations, mysterious signs: some years ago we discovered street art in Berlin was something exciting and attracting. It was everywhere. And it had a glimpse of avant gardism. We liked to play around in the city, finding all kinds of objects, being surprised by all the things made in the many open spaces the city has. Meanwhile street art found its way into galleries and books and most of all in the form of guerilla commercials. Around the launch of the movie Borat, one could find the image of Borat sprayed and glued in cities all over Europe. The street art techniques are used as techniques for commercial usage, branding and marketing. But what is left of all the wonder in the city when even the nice, small drawings of birds could hide a commercial message? When street artists have to fear for police helicopters and imprisonment? And the rest of the street art scene hides in galleries or in projects funded by the Berlin municipality?

Since we got back from our trip, we looked with fresh eyes to our area Kreuzberg. What has changed? What is happening? This summer there are two large street art exhibitions in Kreuzberg: Backjumps and Planet Prozess. Backjumps has been two times before and this is announced to be the last edition. Both exhibitions are accompanied by several workshops and projects taking place on the streets. Legal and illegal pieces are created, and in case of the Planet Prozess, the exhibition is centered around actions made in the city. Although it is really great to see such an attention for street art, both exhibitions are disappointing. Backjumps leans quite on the artistic aspects of ´writing, and the only highlight I find is a project where German, Cuban and Brazilian street artists cooperate. Here one can find the only accurate thematizations of street art as a fore fighter of free speech and expression. But one could make the wrong conclusion: free expression is a struggle for Cuba, not for Germany.

Berlin streets are alive, but if you would compare the same area of Kreuzberg between 1970 and now, one would say: wow, this is getting a chique area. Even the slummy corners of Kreuzberg are preparing for gentrification. And street art is on the run. Most illegal works are ugly tags, as graffiti is more and more criminalized. A lot of great street artists have gone the commercial way. Most free spaces have been occupied by commercials, other places have become shops or bars. So, what is left of street art here anyway?

A lot. Berlin is a crazy city and even in the chique streets of Mitte, one finds a lot of nice pieces of unplanned art or forms of living. Just between two streets, someone built a two floors tree house, put up fences and grows a vegetable garden (see picture). There is still a lot of surprises to be found. The magic of this city is still alive, but it needs a more political approach. What about the declining space for art in the public domain, what about the commercial use of guerilla art? How can commercial companies such as Nokia, using street art as a way to brand themselves as cool, be sponsors of these exhibitions? It is time to invent new urban art tactics and reclaim street art. Come on, creative people of this city, we can do better! Let´s jump forward!

This travel diary will be continued. We will publish reports from Berlin and the rest of the world regularly, focusing on the themes of sustainable and creative forms of working and living, visiting alternative communities and writing reports of subcultural developments we find urgent.

Friday, 13 July 2007

Low lands at last























Cars, trucks, jams, bikes, railways, viaducts, highways, trams. Cars, trucks, jams, bikes, railways, viaducts, highways, trams. Cars, trucks, jams, bikes, railways, viaducts, highways, trams. That´s the image one gets entering Holland after a 9000 km tour through Europe and Near Asia. A high-tech traffic mega-polis with some flat green polder lands pressed between roads and cities. A growing monster. The ultimate middle finger towards climate change. `Standing with your nose in the wind´, a typical Dutch expression. A country just existing because of dikes and sand supplements. Why do we like it here?

We traveled around the country, visiting family and friends, celebrating a lovely wedding, taking the time to come to ourselves and do work. Also in The Netherlands we visited interesting places, such as the Papenhulst in Den Bosch. 'De Paap' is a living community in the city centre, a formal hospital and squat. Here, about fifty people live together on a terrain with garden and houses. We just started realizing how normal these forms of living together are when you see a lot, but actually they are quite special as you consider that most people in cities live a quite anonymous life behind their apartment walls.

The ADM is a squatted area in the harbor of Amsterdam, an alternative community of people living on boats, artists, drunkards and nomads. A terrain full of caravans, yurts, tipi’s, own built houses, a huge hall for ship repairs, art installations, ships, old busses, iron monsters and water. All the elements are strongly presented here.
Not so long ago, Amsterdam was full of these kinds of places, but as space is scarce, most of them are cleaned away or rebuilt into yuppie lofts. We visited Hein and Hilde, living on their boat with their four cats, on the land a gipsy caravan used as atelier, a small woodhouse and sauna made of materials found in the harbor. Everything here is found on the harbor. A recycling city.

Windmills. Stormy weather. Large cargo ships and carbon ships. A fresh blown mind. Also this place will disappear soon. The first signs of detournement. Hein and Hilde plan to leave as soon as their ship is ready for it. Nomads always go on. And what about us? We go back home, to Berlin, our home, where our hearts got stolen, turned around two times, married and with a baby, back there again, towards a new future. As nomads in our own life.

Thursday, 28 June 2007

Tout, autour de la Terre







We were flying between the clouds. The lights of our van disappeared just in front of us. A dreamland of mists and fogs. Small, turning roads. A red fox crossing our path. Old, abandoned stonehouses with a glimpse of ancient, celtic times. Turns and turns and turns. We had to find an old phoneboot in a village called Ars. We entered another world.


Tout, autour de la Terre is the name of a project in La Creuse, a small, rural region in middle France. Cecilia had been wwoofing here years ago, and now we came for a visit. One woman is living at this place over years, other people come and go, transforming the place with their presence.
The garden was designed according to principles of permaculture, with bees and fruit trees, vegetables and flowers merely growing together, and a lot to weed ass well. This place was also a pottery with beautiful art work, exposed in a handmade greenhouse in the garthen. Next to the old farmhouse a large, gracious tower was built the last years in the old style of the region. The woman who lived here built her own house with recycled materials, old car tires, glass bottles and wood, half underground, but with a great view over the surrounding hills.

We helped with weeding the garden and insolating the roof of the house with kley and hay. We enjoyed the music making and singing, the sweatlodge and the lovely home made pies, cakes, chutneys and strawberry icecreams. There was a good atmosphere and it was very learnsome, though it was not easy for us to adjust to the working and living rithm here. Long working days, late dinners, and a sleepy Gaya, somehow we did not succeed finding the right balance here. After almost a week we had enough of it. We wanted to have time for our own projects, and focus on these. One evening we left for The Netherlands, our last destination before going back (or forth) to Berlin.

Torri Superiore



The omens where not too good. A low bridge with a roadsign saying 2.20 max. while our bus counts 2.60 high was a first warning, though we managed to get across. Just behind the bridge we were stopped by a road construction, not allowing cars to pass untill six p.m. After some hours of waiting, we took the mountain road to Torri Superiore, an ecovillage made in an old, abandoned mountain village. Arriving there, thunderstorms welcomed there and we had to wait in the van until the weather allowed us.

The village is built steeply against the mountain rocks and coming from the valley it looks untakable. We had contacted the ecovillage longer in advance and were welcomed to come as volunteers. As we did not succeed phoning them, just left a message to announce our arrival. When we came there, they told us that they did not needed volunteers, but we could stay in their guest room and pay about 100 Euro per night. Allright.
The woman managing these matters had a very unwelcome attitude towards us, totally misplaced and not suiting a beautifull ecovillage like this. We realized how lucky we have been with all projects we visited so far, with all the hospitality, their relaxed way of coordinating their volunteers, all these good, inspiring visits. Now we found ourselves to be on a same kind of place, but with a totally different attitude, where people with fancy new cars could stay a night and eat with the ecocommunity. A strange matter of difference within a community we did not feel right about. A power difference one can trace back to its name?
On the other hand we met nice and friendly people, there was an open and welcoming athmosphere, and it was a beautiful village surrounded by steep mountains. In other circumstances it could have been just perfect.

Monday, 4 June 2007

Retour / Detour








Since we moved upwards through Italy we feel that our journey is getting closer to it's end. Meanwhile we recognized that this way of living hjas been very valuable to us, and we hope that we will be able to travel more often like this and work while we travel. We promised ourselves not to stick to the ordinary citylife too long. When we come back, we will have some projects to do, such as starting up the Pamoyo clothing label, which we have been preparing a bit during our trip. It is not easy to work while traveling the way we do, with a small child and intensive travel experiences and work visits. The travelling blessed us with inspiration and imput, and we look forward putting our ideas into practice!

We have had a bit of a break seeing Klaas en Riki, though the start was a sort of strange nightmare with a cursed house in a village called Spello. We calmed down from our negative experiences on the lovely Renaissance landhouse La Fratta. Here we celebrated Gaya's birthday. It is special to celebrate your first childs first birhtday. A wonderful day! Now we are a few days in the Riviera, close to Cinque Terre. Soon we will visit another ecovillage in Italy and then visit some in France, before we go to Holland.

Ecovillages



Mostly they hide in places far from civilization, close to nature and basicly every place is different. We have been visiting some projects that we found through the Global Ecovillage Network. It is an interesting way of travelling, visiting alternative forms of living and community forming. Not every place was really a village, often projects did not exist anymore or it was the wrong time to visit them. We discovered that it is better to visit a few places and have more time there so one has really the time getting to k now the place and the people, often it needs time also to find out what one can help with. So better stay a week minimum. Also most places want to hear from you in advance, and the best way is phoning them.

Wednesday, 23 May 2007

Communards of Urupia









One day you wake up, you realize the world suffers a lot from egoism, selfishness and materialism and you decide to change your life. Well, people now and then do these things and some of them create communes, exchanging their personal possessions for a common property.

In the picturesque area of Puglia, South Italy, we found the lively commune Urupia. Between old, abandoned houses, whine fields, olive trees, palms and cactuses a white stone house rises up on the horizon. On the right time one can find the communards under a long veranda with rounded bows, discussing and chatting, eating their lovely meals, drinking their own produced wine, laughing or just in silence enjoying the last sunshine. On all the other times one will wonder where everyone is. At least we did until we found out that there is a lot of whine yards and lands where the people of Urupia work on. And working they do! The moment we visited there was a lot of work to do and too less hands, and the work is done with dedication and care. After the work there waits a good Italian meal and nothing is more rewarding after working in the whine fields than drinking a glass of their own whine!
Living in such a commune sounds like a romantic dream and for guests it can quite be like that, but for the communards it is not an easy live. We have great respect for these people, dedicating themselves to this dream, living it in daily life. And off course if you want to find clichés you can find them, but to be honest we did not find any flower power but normal people searching for a good way to live together. In this time of self centered behavior it is interesting to see a different perspective being practiced.

Urupia has Berlin vibes. Starting as an initiative of German and Italian anarchists, many traces lead to Berlin and back. We got to know about Urupia drinking their whine in the restaurant where we had our wedding party, and that is not only a coincidence. Berliners come to here as guests, communards go to Berlin with wine and olive oil.
It is amazing to see how much different projects are done by people on Urupia. They produce whine with their own whine yards and whine laboratory. They produce grains and bake breads in a olive wood oven. They produce olive oil from their own trees. They grow herbs, fruits and vegetables and mainly live from their own production. A few communards work outside the commune, but most people work on these things daily. And not to forget they cook twice a day a respectable dish for everyone.
Frans worked in the whine yard and learned a little bit about it. He had to bind up the whine strings piece by piece in a large field of waving whine strings, a never ending job what has to be done every year. The binding has to be done because they need to be able to keep away the grass with machines in order to prevent the plants from illnesses. Conventional farmers use pesticides and such instead which saves a lot of work. Here they work according to ecological principles, though their products are not labeled as such. They had done this earlier, but stopped it because getting the label costs money and time so for ‘small’ projects this is not always an option.
One week is definitely too short to get a good impression of this place. We felt more and more at home and it was hard to choose a moment to leave. Sometimes they have forty guests and that would be definitely a different atmosphere. But we happened to experience the Urupia struggling for it’s survival, see the daily life of the communards, and enjoy the special, serene atmosphere of this place. Maybe not Utopia as the name suggests, but at least the practice of people realizing their dreams.